Wednesday, 15 October 2014


I've never given my fish live food (other than brine shrimp and some inverts that somehow colonised one of my tanks) but I got my hands on a bunch of blackworms that were left over from a lab exercise. So into my tank they went and the massacre commenced.

Blackworm behaviour is interesting - in a smooth container they form a large mass of worms which coil together. When I dropped them into my tank they initially clumped together - the ones that landed on plant stems turned into a mass the reminds of a group of swarming bees which have settled on a tree trunk.
Cluster of blackworms on a Ludwigia stem. 
Once the blackworms made it to the bottom of the tank, their behaviour changed. Instead of remaining in a tight clump they spread out on the bottom of the tank with one end buried in the substrate and the other extending into the water column

In normal circumstances, this is probably a good way for the blackworms to forage while providing themselves with an escape option. From the Wikipedia article about Lumbriculus vaiegatus;
When touched, L. variegatus will attempt to escape, either by swimming in a helical ("cork-screw") fashion, or by reversing its body. The escape pattern used depends on where the worm is touched: anterior touch elicits body reversal, whereas posterior touch triggers helical swimming. L. variegatus has quick reflexes, and uses its photoreceptors to detect shadows and movement, both used to escape threats. The posterior end lifts out of the water and forms a right angle. It is then exposed to air and is used to exchange oxygen and carbon dioxide, although this exposes its posterior to its enemies. If the photoreceptors detect a shadow or movement, the posterior rapidly shortens in response to a threat.
Given the way that the blackworms positioned themselves on the bottom of the tank, it seems likely that the reversal behaviour draws the organism down into the substrate where it would be safe from predators.

Absent the corys and kuhli loaches, the blackworms which made it to the bottom of my tank would probably have been safe. While the tetras greedily attacked any floating worms (and eventually found the worms that had settled on the vegetation) the worms that made it to the bottom of the tank seems to have been safe from them. Even the large mass of worms in the second picture (above) elicited no response from the tetras (although they were eventually find the worms which had settled on the vegetation. The corys, on the other hand, were not only able to find the worms on the bottom of the tank, they also seemed to be quite successful at digging them out of the gravel (and in so doing, managed to uproot several plants). A day later there were still a few worms sticking out of the gravel where the thickest clump had been located, but I don't see any left. It's entirely likely that some - maybe even many - survived by burrowing into the substrate where they can grow and reproduce (and hopefully, continue to become cory food). But that might just be wishful thinking,

Saturday, 20 September 2014

Managing algae III

Things quickly went from bad to worse.

I coupled a water change with manual removal of a large amount of various kinds of algae. I dug through my collection of 'aquarium stuff' and found an (old) bottle of Seachem Flourish. Great; although it's not marketed as an algaecide, it often works. So I added some. Then I realised that what I had wasn't Flourish Excel, and rather than adding a carbon source, I was adding fertiliser. Not what I was thinking, but it should still boost plant growth, and hopefully would help them compete with the algae.

Already on Friday (the day I did the water change) I noticed that they water wasn't terribly clear; by Saturday it was noticeably more cloudy. The algae on the driftwood was also growing like crazy, and I removed a lot more of it. Saturday evening I visited the pet store in search of Flourish Excel and found instead API CO2 Boost. Since it's basically the same stuff (glutaraldehyde) I decided to buy a bottle and see how it would work. I added my first dose that night.

By Sunday, it was obvious that something was wrong. I had a growing green water problem (overgrown of unicellular green algae). Over the next few days I kept dosing with the CO2 Boost, and the water kept getting greener and greener.

By Tuesday afternoon the water was very green and cloudy.

On Thursday it was bad enough that I decided to stop the experiment and do a major water change.

Wednesday, 11:40 am
Wednesday, 4:14 pm
Thursday, 11:58 am
As I started to refill the tank I added dechlorinator to the water I was about to add, together with the  CO2 Boost and, without thinking, the fertiliser. Then it occurred to me to wonder what was in it. A quick glance at the bottle clued me in to the likely cause of my green water problem - the first listed nutrients were N and P. Just what you don't want in a tank with a green water problem. At that point I realised I had a problem.

After the water change, things looked a lot better, but the water was still green (upper image). Less than an hour later, the water was noticeably greener.

Normally, the best course of action is to fix the problems with the water, but in this case it didn't seem like the most viable solution. I had elevated the levels of phosphate. It would probably have taken several water changes to get it back to something like the baseline level.I decided, instead, to dig out UV Steriliser. A UV steriliser uses ultraviolet light to kill microorganisms in the water. I bought it many years ago to fight ich (quite successfully) and hadn't used it in years.

Within a few hours, there was a visible improvement in clarity.
Two hours later, further change was visible.

The following afternoon, things have improved even more.

Afternoon of day two, and the water clarity is better than it even was.

By the morning of the second day (Saturday) the water was pretty much clear. Saturday afternoon, 48 hours after I started running the UV steriliser, and the water clarity is as good as it have ever been in this tank. I'm really impressed with how quickly it managed to get the job done. Granted, a 24 W unit is overpowered for a 55 gallon tank. But it did the job remarkably quickly.

Friday, 19 September 2014

Ghost shrimp

The latest addition to my tank is a small group of Ghost shrimp (Palaemonetes sp.). I like the idea of having shrimp in my community tanks, and Ghost shrimp are both large enough to coexist with the fish I have, and cheap enough that I can afford to keep them in conditions where successful recruitment of offspring is unlikely.

Fish are most interesting if they're are active swimmers. The appeal of shrimp, on the other hand, lies in the fact that they don't move much. They tend to spend much of their time in one spot, feeding on whatever detritus or algae is at hand. Being translucent, Ghost shrimp may not be the ideal aquarium shrimp, but they make up for this limitation by being cheap enough to stock at relatively high densities. They also happen to be large enough to coexist with the fish I have in my community tank - Glowlight tetras, imperfectly identified Blood tetras, two species of Corydoras, some Otocinclus and several kuhli loaches.

I decided to use my algae issues as an excuse to add a few Ghost shrimp to my tank. After all, there tends to be a relationship between species diversity and stability in ecological systems. I can't say it helped (I would honestly be very surprised if eight shrimp - or fewer - could make any change in a 55-gallon aquarium, especially given less than a week to work at it). Not to mention that they are supposed to feed primarily on algae.

After a week there are between five and seven survivors. I found one shrimp dead the morning after I purchased them (the smallest of the group); I'm hoping the rest of them made it. I saw five of them together yesterday - that sets the lower limit on the number of survivors - but generally I only see two or three of them at a time.
Palaemonetes paludosus, the eastern Grass Shrimp.
Public domain image. Original image by Joseph Stansbury Rosin, cropped and sharpened by Kazvorpal.
The Ghost shrimp available in pet stores in the US appears to be Palaemontest paludosus, the eastern or riverine Grass shrimp. One of the most interesting things about these shrimp are that they apparently dig quite extensive burrows. Via The Aquarium Wiki
The Ghost Shrimp burrows to feed and digs its two to three foot deep burrow with the claws of the first and second legs. It uses these legs to draw the sandy mud backward and collect it in a receptacle formed by another pair of legs. When the receptacle is full, the shrimp crawls backward, reverses itself in a special turn around chamber and then deposits its load outside. The burrows are not permanent. A number of branches and turnaround chambers are found in the burrows and they have at least two openings to the surface. The shrimp use their pleopods to produce some circulation of sea water through the burrows. The pencil-sized openings of the burrows are typically in the middle of little piles of sand or sand with small pebbles.
This would suggest that tanks with coarse gravel bottoms may not be ideal for keeping these shrimp. It might also explain why I rarely see more than one or two of them at a time. It does seem hard for me to envision how such a small shrimp would build and maintain such an extensive system of burrows.

Female carrying eggs. Public domain image courtesy Vlad at The Aquarium Wiki.

Monday, 15 September 2014

Observations on Blood tetra behaviour II

Some further observation on the Blood tetras.

[Update: These may not be Serpae tetras, so I'm referring to them by the broader term, 'Blood tetras']

One of the obvious questions about these interactions between the "Serpaes" is the question of what's aggression and what's mating behaviour. Several days ago I noticed a few of them and a few Glowlights hanging around the top of my (small) clump of Cambomba. From what I have read of breeding Serpaes, it seems that fine-leaved plants (like Cabomba, presumably) are attractive sites for Serpaes to spawn (and presumably other Blood tetras). It makes me wonder whether these fish were feasting on freshly laid eggs (though, of course, if they were, it might have been Glowlight eggs as well).

Sunday, 14 September 2014

Serpae tetra? Or not?

One of the things I noticed about my Serpae tetras (or 'Red minor tetras' as they were labelled in the pet store) was that only one of them had the characteristic black 'comma' mark behind the operculum (i.e., the gills). That one individual was also significantly redder than the other fish.

I visited the same store today and noticed that in addition to their 'Red minor tetras' they also had a tank of 'White-finned rosy tetras' (Hyphessobrycon bentosi), and that these fish matched what I had. So, I wondered, were my original fish mislabelled? And what were these fish?

First problem was that name: white-finned rosy tetras. Google around and you find 'Rosy tetras' (Hyphessobrycon rosaceus) which look a fair bit like these fish, and 'Ornate tetras' (Hyphessobrycon bentosi). So do I give Petsmart the benefit of the doubt and trust their ID of H. bentosi (though it's noteworthy that their website, unlike the store, doesn't appear to attach a species name at all to the 'White-finned rosy tetras') or should I follow the more common result on Google and assume that they're H. rosaceus?

Unsure how to proceed, I decided to get a sense of the genus Hyphessobrycon. The Wikipedia article on the genus notes that there are over 100 species (as of 2005), but only a handful of these have Wikipedia articles. That said, the coverage of commonly kept aquarium fish is pretty decent, so I decided to see how well I could match my fish with those covered.

Some of them were easy to dismiss as candidate species. Hyphessobrycon columbianus, the Colombian tetra, is described as being silver-grey in colour with a turquoise tinge from the lateral line upward. Several others were also easy to dismiss: H. herbertaxelrodi (the Black neon tetra), H. heterorhabdus (the [Belgian] Flag tetra), H. megalopterus (the Black phantom tetra) H. anisitsi (the Buenos Aires tetra) and H. pulchripinnis (the Lemon tetra) are all easy to rule out; they look nothing like these fish. But that still leaves quite a few candidates (among the species with Wikipedia articles) that required closer examination.
The Black neon tetra, H. herbertaxelrodi, is clearly distinct in both colour and body shape from these tetras.
Photo copyright Juan R. Lascorz, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Ruling these species out was the easy part. Identifying a good candidate among the remaining species was a little more difficult. Hyphessobrycon amandae (the Ember tetra) appears to have a narrower body and smaller fins. The Flame tetra (Hyphessobrycon flammeus) has the right body shape, but has a pair of vertical bars. My fish also lack the prominent red spot associated with the Bleeding heart tetra (H. erythrostigma). This left five reasonable candidates: H. bentosi, H. eques, H. minor, H. rosaceus and H. sweglesi. These five deserved more careful examination.

My fish (Hyphessobrycon sp.)

My fish are orange-red tetras with a relatively thick body. The dorsal fins are back with white edging; the forward third of the dorsal fins are also white or red. Only one of them has the red 'comma' mark typical of Serpae tetras (though apparently not invariably present.
Note the black dorsal fin edged with white. The front end of the dorsal fin can also be white or red. The anal fins are also white-edged, with a black dot at the rear edge (not visible here). Also not visible are the white edges on the pelvic fins.
Same group of fish. Note the black spot at the distal end of the anal fin (clearly visible in the top fish).
Hyphessobrycon eques (Serpae tetra)

This was, after all, my first guess. The best argument against my fish being Serpaes is the fact that one of them clearly is, and he looks different from everyone else.
The black line behind the gills is clearly visible, as is the more intense red. Photo courtesy MiguelCampos, released into the public domain.

Hyphessobrycon minor (Minor tetra)

Given that these fish were labelled 'Red minor tetras' in the pet store, you'd think that 'Minor tetras' would be a very good guess for the identity of these fish. The problem is that this week, in addition to the 'White-finned rosy tetras' they also had a tank of 'Red minor tetras'. And in fact, these appeared to be Serpaes. That said, of course, assuming that the following image is correctly identified, it would be easy to confuse the two.
Copyright Yuriy Kvach, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Finding anything about these fish via Google is nearly impossible, since searches for 'Minor tetra' is going to be subsumed into searches for 'Red minor tetra'. The main distinguishing factor I can find is size, and since these fish are not fully grown, it isn't the most helpful.

Hyphessobrycon sweglesi (Red phantom tetra)

Another fish that looks very like a Serpae tetra, but this time with an even bigger spot behind the gills.
Courtesy Tsunamicarlos; released into the public domain.

Hyphessobrycon bentosi (Ornate tetra)

The tank I saw today at Petsmart was labelled 'White-finned rosy tetras' (Hyphessobrycon bentosi). They looked a lot like the fish I bought, but that doesn't mean they are the same.
Hyphessobrycon bentosi, Copyright Euripides, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.

Copyright H. Krisp, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 Unported license.
Assuming that these pictures are correctly identified, the most notable difference (other than the body colour, which can wash out in stressed fish) is the lack of a black spot at the far end of the anal fin. Animal-World has the following to say about distinguishing these tetras from H. rosaceus (the Rosy tetra).
These two tetras are so similar in appearance that this fish is commonly known as the False Rosy Tetra. Both have a pink to deep salmon colored body, though this species is a bit more transparent. They also each have darker red markings on their fins. They differ in that the Ornate Tetra always has white tipped fins while the Rosy may or may not, and the Rosy has a black marking or 'flag' on its dorsal fin. Other common names this tetra is known by include White Tip Tetra, White Fin Ornate Tetra, and Bentos Tetra.
Not entirely useful, but it does suggest that the paler colour of these fish may not be incidental.

Hyphessobrycon rosaceus (Rosy tetra)

This brings us to our final candidate, the Rosy tetra. After all, the fish today were labelled as 'White-finned rosy tetras'.
Copyright Aquakeeper14, licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license.
Problems begin with the descriptions of the species. From Wikipedia
The rosy tetra has a light pink-white body with red fins, except the dorsal fin which can be black or white, and the caudal fin which is pink-white with two elliptical red spots on it. It has a faint black line from the top of its eyeball through the pupil, to the bottom of the eyeball. 
Animal-World has this to add
The Rosy Tetra Hyphessobrycon rosaceus is a fun addition to a peaceful community aquarium with other smaller fishes. It has the deep bodied shape of the larger tetras like the Bleeding Heart Tetra. It is also quite pretty with its deep salmon body color highlighted with red accents and bright white tips on the fins. 


So what do I have? I don't know. Only the Serpae tetras and the Minor tetras had the black spot on their anal fin in any of the pictures, but sadly none of the species descriptions matched them at all. All I know right now is that I have some sort of Blood tetras. Beyond that, I'm still uncertain.

Saturday, 13 September 2014

Observations on Serpae tetra behaviour

As I mentioned previously, I recently acquired a school of Serpae tetras. And they weren't quite what I expected (though the fault was mine for not doing better research). So a couple weeks on, what do I think of them?

[Update: These may not be Serpae tetras.]

To their credit, they're attractive, active fish. They use the entire water column (at least with the tank-mates they currently have) but seem to favour the front of the tank. (Again, that might be specific to these fish, but they certainly are aware of humans and know that we're a source of food).

They are strongly motivated by food. My Glowlight tetras have limited interest in a block of dried tubifex (they will eat the floaters dislodged by other fish, but they won't attack the block itself) and almost none in algae wafers. The Serpaes, on the other hand, will greedily attack dried tubifex and sinking algae wafers. While the Glowlights will spit out flakes that are too large for them, the Serpaes hold onto any food and eventually swallow down whatever they get a grasp on (often looking like they're at risk of choking on the food, though I suppose that in order to choke you need lungs).

As tetras go, they're fairly aggressive. While most of the aggression is directed at conspecifics, they Serpaes seem to have effectively banished both the Corys and the Glowlights from their preferred terrain (the front of the tank) except when food is present, when they seem to focus their aggression on conspecifics. The intraspecific aggression is interesting - one fish will go at another with its dorsal and anal fins expanded. Sometimes the fish that's attacked will swim off (in which case the aggressor seems to give chase) while other times they will spin around and stand their ground, responding with a similar display. The two combatants may clash a couple times before one retreats, though rarely very far. This sort of thing usually happens around food, especially algae wafers.

Tubifex blocks are very light, very low density - they're just freeze-dried worms compressed into a block. Once they fish start to attack them, they are quickly dismembered (especially if the fish in question are Serpaes or Kuhli loaches...Corys, which don't actually bite into things, can't break the block up as quickly). Once the Serpaes get to them, they don't last very long. Algae wafers, on the other hand, as fairly solid, although they gradually soften up as they soak in water. Since they last longer, they are soon covered with a scrum of Corys which completely cover the block and only offer armoured tails to the Serpaes. As a result, the Serpaes gather around above the wafer, waiting for the wafer to be exposed (which happens every now and then as the Corys move the wafer around and flip it over, and every so often seem to lose the wafer entirely). It is at this time, when the Serpaes are gathered together for a prolonged period, without clear access to the food, that I observe most aggression.

I hope that as the plants grow the sight-lines in the aquarium will be more broken up and life will become more peaceful.

Friday, 12 September 2014

Managing algae II

The following combination is a great recipe for an algae outbreak: a relatively new tank, fairly high fish stocking, new lights and a long photoperiod. And that would be where I find myself.

My driftwood has always supported a large population of Cladophora. It had vanished while the log was dry, and didn't show up in the new aquarium until I replaced the lighting. I'm not sure whether this reflects a lag time in growth (from spores or resistant bits) or whether it was simply a response to the higher light. (Obviously the high light helped it grow, and grow it did, like crazy). While many aquarists consider Cladophora to be the bane of their existence, I'm actually fond of it, as long as it stays on that piece of wood. It does require regular removal, but given its coarse texture, it is actually quite easy to remove.

If Cladophora had been the only issue, I wouldn't have been bothered. I also managed to attract a population of what some call 'green dust algae' - fine stuff that covered the glass. Initially I took it for green water (which is a problem) but then I realised it was just on the glass. It's easy to scrape, but right now it's growing like crazy. My problem is that I also have at least two other types of algae, and these are a bit problematic. I have some blue-green algae forming in a couple places. I don't care about it on rocks, but it is also growing on my plants. That's a problem, that I will need to sort out one way or another (it's not an easy problem to solve). Then I have something that's new to me. It fits the description of 'green hair algae' (and possibly some 'thread algae' on my filter outflow). Not good stuff to have around. For starters, it seems to grow like crazy and attach to anything (plants, heater; it's even smothering the Cladophora). It's also very slimy and insubstantial - people recommend twisting it around a toothbrush to remove it). 

Saturday, 6 September 2014

More on Serpae tetras

After observing them for a week in my main tank, I can report that Serpae tetras may not be quite what I expected them to be.

[Update: These may not be Serpae tetras.]

I have kept a number of tetras over the years (neons, cardinals, rummynose, glowlights) and I have always found them to be exceptionally well suited to a community aquarium - they are peaceful, attractive fish that bring life and colour to the mid-waters of the tank. While they are strikingly pretty fish which bring life to a tank, my Serpae tetras are far less peaceful than the other tetras I've kept.

For starters, they are aggressive feeders. While glowlights will spit out food that's too big for them (and maybe take a second or third bite at it), the Serpae tetras would not let go of a piece of food once they had a bite of it. They also go after food quite aggressively, even challenging the (must larger) Corydoras and kuhli loaches. Again, unlike the glowlights, which rarely go after food on the bottom of the tank, the Serpae tetras will go in for it.

They are also much more aggressive tetra-to-tetra. They will bully the glowlights just a little, but far more noticeable are the occasional clashes with their conspecifics. Just a few of the largest fish fight with one-another, but as they settle in, these clashes seem more common. I doubt schooling tetras are likely to be territorial, so presumably this has more to do with setting up a dominance hierarchy.

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

Planting dwarf hairgrass

As part of my aquarium re-do I decided to add some dwarf hairgrass (Eleocharis parvula) to the foreground. The plants I bought formed a dense mat of runners that I separated into a number of large clumps that I anchored with half a toothpick. While the clumps stayed put pretty well (although foraging corys uprooted a couple of them) I was left with a lot of smaller bits floating on top of my tank. While it was only a small portion of what I had bought, it was still a lot of plants, and it seemed wasteful to discard them (or really, just let them float until they were battered to death by the water flow).

Having done the planting I found myself wondering how I should have done it. I looked around online and found this video.

It looked like an interesting, albeit labour intensive, way of getting things planted, so I tried it with my leftover floating bits of the plant.

As I thought, it's tedious and labour intensive. I gave up after a dozen or so plantings. It was also a very effective way of getting the plants rooted - something I wish I had learned years ago. I tried it with a fragment of Ludwigia that had floated in the tank for the last two weeks (and grown a long root). It worked just as well. While I'm a little concerned that I might be burying the stems a bit too deep in the substrate (though, luckily, it's just gravel) I'm not too worried. I'll see how things work. So far though, it seems like a good technique for planting any small aquarium plants, especially those that come as cut stems with no real root mass. (I wouldn't, for example, try that technique with a sword.)

Serpae tetras

Hyphessobrycon eques. Photo by Alexander Dubrovsky, released into the public domain.
The local big box fish store happened to have a big sale recently; among the various discounted fish was a tankful of what they called 'minor red tetras'. This name was new to me, so I looked it up and it turned out to be one of the many names for Hyphessobrycon eques, more commonly known as the Serpae tetra. On a whim (and since there was space in my newly renovated tank) I decided to buy what they had.

[Update: These may not be Serpae tetras.]

Although the fish I keep are generally South American, I have barely scratched the surface when it comes to tetra diversity. Mostly I've seen the long-finned variety in pet stores, and they always struck me as slightly sad, slightly clumsy-looking fish. These guys though are attractive little fish, fairly active in the mid and upper water of the tank, willing to school near (or even with) my Glowlight tetras.

I can't speak for them in the long term, but thus far, I'm happy with the addition.

Thursday, 28 August 2014

Crypt melt

Within a few days of re-establishing my main aquarium, I noticed that my Crypts (Cryptocoryne wendtii, as far as I can tell) were not looking to well. With the move and everything, I didn't give it a whole lot of thought - most of the plants were looking more than a little worse for wear.
Nice growth of Crypts - obviously not mine!
Cryptocoryne wendtii, from Wikimedia Commons. Copyright User:Haplochromis. Licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported license
Over the next week the leaves, already flopped over, grew thinner and less substantial and it was apparent that this was the thing I had long read about, but never actually seen - Crypt melt. Eventually nothing was left but a few petioles and a mass of gunk clogging the intake of my filter. Fortunately, the damage does not appear to be permanent (except in terms of shed leaf tissue). Just a few days after 'peak melt', fresh leaves are popping up and they look healthy.

This is consistent with what I've read online. Crypts can be sensitive to changing environmental conditions, and respond by losing their leaves. Hardier species like C. wendtii do this more rarely and recover more quickly. Other species are more sensitive.

Sunday, 24 August 2014

Moving, part II

As I mentioned in my last post, I moved a long-established tank at the end of July. At the new place, I housed my fish and plants in a 27-gallon tank temporarily until I had time to set up my 55-gallon tank properly. That ended up being a 3-week hiatus, while my driftwood and gravel sat outside on the back porch. Last weekend, I was finally able to set things up. It was an experience worth writing about.

The first challenge of the set-up was cleaning my gravel. In a planted tank, vacuuming the gravel is impractical, so the tank probably contained about 7 years of organic matter. Securely buried, that probably created a nice anaerobic layer where denitrification might have been occurring. Dig it up and you have a house that smells of rotten eggs. I thought a few weeks in the sun might help things, but in reality the gravel was still quite wet. And very smelly. Washing all that gravel took me about half a day, and in the end I did a less than perfect job. To be honest, I wasn't entirely sure I wanted perfectly clean gravel - organic matter in the substrate not only provides nutrients for the plants, it also provides a small amount of carbon dioxide (which can be a plus for photosynthesis).

Gravel in, I got to work on the decor. Fairly simple - some slate and a large piece of driftwood. The the plants. Most people recommend doing the planting before you add water, and I found that works pretty well; if nothing else, it lets you did holes to plant without raising debris (the gravel was cleaner, not clean). My budget wasn't that large, so I didn't buy a lot of new plants, but I was hoping what I had (and what I bought) might spread out as things progressed. Then it came time to fill it. I usually use a plate in the bottom of the aquarium to break the stream of water, so as not to disturb the sediment too much, but lacking enough open space for a plate, I used a small bowl. It worked great. While a plate dissipates the energy of the water stream, the water still flows out over the sides with some force. Using a small bowl prevented this.

Now - the problems. Leaving a large piece of driftwood out in the sun for three weeks is a bad idea. As I finished filling the tank, it started to float. I ended up lowering the water level a little so that it wasn't buoyant enough to leave the ground. After almost a week I slowly topped off the tank, and things looked fine. Until today when I had to reattach some plants that had floated up and bumped into the driftwood. To my surprise, I noticed that although the wood is resting on the bottom of the tank, it's still fairly buoyant. Hopefully it will be completely waterlogged in a short while.

Friday, 1 August 2014

Moving with aquarium fish

I always knew it was coming. I never expected to stay in that apartment - in fact, I stayed there much longer than I ever anticipated doing so. Last week I was finally forced to confront the problem of moving with fish.

As far as moves go, this one was relatively simple. We didn't move across the country - we didn't even move across town. We just moved a block down the road. We also had the opportunity to stretch the move over a few days, which made relocating the fish even easier. The down side was that I was moving a 55-gallon planted tank with substrate that hadn't been disturbed in about five years. This meant that I had thick, highly anaerobic substrate to move.

Step one was setting up a destination tank to temporarily house the fish in my new place. For this I used a 27-gallon tank without substrate. I set this up as soon as we got access to the new place. In a case like that, it's impossible to cycle a tank, but using an established filter and filling it with plants should help to alleviate that problem. I also made sure that it was very well-lit - plants that are growing are able to make use of a lot more nitrogenous waste products (ammonia, nitrites or nitrates) if they are growing. I could also have added gravel and decorations from the old tank (since they should support a healthy biofilm) but I chose not to.

The biggest challenge was emptying the old tank. The plants, rocks and driftwood were easy enough to remove, but doing so disturbed the substrate and re-suspended a lot of muck, making it difficult to see the fish I was trying to catch. Catching most of the fish was fairly straight-forward - wait for them to rest near the front of the tank and then catch them (using two nets, of course). Since they were only travelling a short distance, I placed them in a small plastic tub which I floated in the tank. I filled the tub with plants to provide cover for the fish. I floated the tub to avoid the problem of panicked fish jumping out of it - if they jumped, they would have been back in the aquarium, not flopping around on the carpet (or worse yet, cat-treats). The plant cover also should have reduced stress (and the urge to jump).

After catching what I could, I gradually lowered the water level, catching more fish as the water depth fell. The most challenging fish to catch were the kuhli loaches, which are both fast-moving and very shy. Once the fish were out, I piled the substrate to the back of the tank and scooped it out, trying my best to minimise the amount of water I was taking with me (since water adds weight to the already heavy gravel). This process also made it easier to scoop out the remaining water. Only when all of the gravel and almost all of the water was removed from the tank did I finally move the tank.

When you're move a tank, make sure you empty it as completely as possible. Aquaria are designed to handle a lot of weight (several hundred pounds)

  1. Plan your move. This whole process would have been a lot more complicated if we had completed the move in a single day.
  2. Gravel (and other substrate) is heavy dry and even heavier wet. If you can remove it long enough in advance before the move and let it dry out completely, all the better.
  3. Rationalise things. Do you need all your tanks? Are there fish that you can give away to friends or sell back to pet stores? Do you have old equipment you are not longer using? Think through what you need to move.
  4. Make a plan for how you're going to move your fish and plants. A short move is possible in a small tub, but a cross-country move, one that might take several days, is another matter entirely. How are you transporting your fish? Will they have enough air for the move? Are you mixing potentially incompatible fish? (Fish that can coexist in a tank with plenty of space may not be able to coexist in a small container.) What is the temperature going to be like where the fish are? Are you going to be able to house your fish when you get to your destination?